Huia Gewurztraminer 2000

Marlborough, New Zealand
$169, Watsons Wine Cellars 2147 3640

Despite the prefix 'Gewurz,' meaning spice in German, the variety Gewurztraminer, or simply known in the New World as Traminer, has no spicy overtone but an obvious and exotic rose, lychee and tropical fruit perfume. This versatile variety is ideal for sweet vinous nectar as well as enjoyable dry whites. In the ideal cool and sunny Marlborough region, Traminer produces wines of restrained perfume and a satisfying mouthful. Classic examples can also be found in Oregon, Alsace and the Southern Rhine. Try with roast pork with prunes and extra crackling.

Knappstein 'Enterprise' Shiraz 1998

Clare Valley, South Australia
$222, Wine'n'Things 2873 5733

Tim Knappstein -- the Robinson Crusoe of the South Australian wine industry -- sold his profitable label to Petaluma in order to pursue the Holy Grail of winemaking -- Pinot Noir. The supreme craftsmen at the Petaluma Group have preserved and extended the quality and reputation of the label. This Enterprise Shiraz is the top of the line Shiraz from the cool and mineral rich Clare Valley just north of Adelaide. This is rich and powerful without being too concentrated. Aromas of dark berries, judicious oak and a silky palate make this dangerously drinkable but it can also age for a decade more. Serve with braised giant snake.

Airone98 Michele Chiarlo

Piedmont, Italy
$175, Force-8 Cellars 2527 6217

Two of Italy's most innovative regions that produce wines of international quality are Piedmont and Tuscany. While the Tuscans have generated a much more widespread and cohesive effort to produce world-class wines, there seemed to exist only a small handful of proactive Piedmontese. Michele Chiarlo, of Monferrato Hills, is one such quality leader. The Airone is a majority blend of the soft and fruity Barbera, complex and assertively dry Nebbiolo and only 10 per cent of the structure and colour enhancing Cabernet. The wine is already showing hints of complex age character, soft and medium bodied. Try with Spaghetti Carbonara made with fresh pancetta.

Geyser Peak Reserve Shiraz 1998

Alexander Valley, California
$431, Remy Fine Wines 28918086

Shiraz is the Australian name of the European Syrah. In Europe, this variety is most important in the northern Rhone, southern France Pay d'Oc areas, Tuscany, the Valais region of Switzerland and Northern Spain. Shiraz has been the workhorse red grape of the Australian wine industry since its inception and more recently risen to international fame as seen in wines like Grange and Hill of Grace. Joining the top ranks is this reserve Shiraz, grown in America but made by Australia's largest wine group -- Penfolds Southcorp. The wine, while unmistakably Australian in generous oak handling with carefully extracted silky tannins, has a cool climate structure that offers balanced and harmonious acids and luscious fruit. Serve to your father in-law.

Dante Irurtia Viognier 1999

Cerro Carmelo, Uruguay
$91, Avail Omtis, 2333 0241

Uruguay has about 30,000 acres of existing planting, most of which falls into the too warm and too humid category. The conscious importation of French technology has improved the existing Bodegas as it had in Chile and Argentina. The biggest opportunity lies in areas not yet developed such as those at or near the foothills of the Andes and nearby the major river tributaries. The current varietal mix is confirmed by international demand, value added are rare varietal releases such as Viognier and Cabernet Franc. The Dante Irurtia Viognier is all honeyed and medium bodied, more than just a curio; it has the length of flavours that typifies many high quality wines. Serve with grilled Salmon.

Simon Tam is director of the International Wine Centre. He can be reached at admin@iwinecentre.com