Amarone is the ancient art of partially air-drying the grape to concentrate the flavors. The drying process dehydrates the grapes of about 30 per cent of their original water content. While the flavors are intensified so are the sugars which after fermentation will give the wine a formidable alcohol level of around 15-15.5 per cent. However, the better the Amarone the less noticeable the alcohol is. Zenato Amarone is dark with a softened edge from extended cask maturation. The aroma is plums and brandy fruitcake. The palate is creamy, fruity and soft. Careful! It is dangerously delicious! Try with stuffed mushrooms. There is also a sweet version of Amarone called Recioto, serve it chilled with chocolate pudding and lots of vanilla ice cream.

Batard, Chevalier, Bienvenues and of course Le Montrachet are the crown jewels of white Burgundy. These are the most expensive Chardonnays in the world and they are probably more effected by the annual weather and growing conditions than most. Recently, Burgundy has been blessed with more than its fair share of good vintages, even in between '88, '89 and '90 and the trio of '95, '96 and '97 are very appealing vintages with individual charms. The year 1993 was more a red vintage than that of white but most of these 93 whites have firm acid structure and are now ready and enjoyable. The Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet 1993 by Louis Latour is light yellow, with open and welcoming aromas of nuts, spices and white pear. The palate is rich with silky glycerol (a type of alcohol). The finish is seductive and is ready for drinking now. Try with grilled sesame crusted tuna cutlet and wasabi mayo.

The 1989 vintage was characterized by a forward easy style when it was released in '92. The warm and plentiful vintage provided an immediately enjoyable wine when most were waiting for the austere 88 to show its friendly side. Some tasters found the '89 a little too straight forward and New World in style -- I was one of such critics. I am pleased to advise that the Chateau Talbot 1989 tasted recently was everything Bordeaux should be. The aromas are complex and while still forthcoming, it was more a gentle caressing rather than a punch that it packed in its youth. Aromas of smoke, tobacco and fresh mushroom are well integrated, the tannins have softened and the length almost seamless. It has at least another 10 years left. Try with spare-ribs with black bean sauce.