with Simon Tam

Tanca Farra 1988

Tenute Sella & Mosca   $188, Castello del Vino 2866 0587

Sardinia is the second largest island in the Mediterranean. Although a reliable supplier of cooperative made, blandly-taste wines, there is a small but growing handful of quality estates such as Tenute Sella & Mosca. Tanca Farra is made with a blend of Cabernet and the local Cannonau where it is known as Alicante in Spain. This is a rich, full and mellow wine that is only showing a fraction of its 12 years of age. Aromas of herbs and spice with a hint of Cabernet fruit. Try with matured Parmesan.

Mas Collet 1997

Bodegas Capannes    $298, Watsons Wine Cellar 2147 3640

Mas is actually the southern French term for a Domaine and this stunning, smooth and ageworthy Mas Collet is produced in Tarragona just across the French border in the north-east of Spain. There is definitely life after the brown and stale red and white Rioja of the past. Mas Collet combines the local Garnacha-Grenache, the French Carignan known as Carinena in Spain and the inevitable Cabernet Sauvignon. The maturation of the blend in French and American oak is carefully timed to preserve the fruitiness. Serve to a good friend.

Unwooded Chardonnay 1999

Shaw and Smith    $138, Kedington Wines 2898 9323

There were great many experimental styles of Australian Chardonnay in the 1980s. Most of which were so heavily oaked and buttery that consumers mistook it for the true Chardonnay flavours. In the early 1990s a small but quality conscious band of winemakers were determined to reinstall the lost reputation of Chardonnay and created a revolutionary style of unoaked Chardonnay. The Shaw and Smith unoaked Chardonnay is fruity with tones like pineapple and ripe rock melon, enjoy this wine young. Serve with fish and chip.

Grande Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

Los Vascos   $170, Omtis 2333 0241

Grown in just about the best climate and soil in Chile while owned and made by the legendary winemakers of Chateau Lafite, Los Vascos is a tasty synergy between the old and the New World. The Grande Reserve blend of Cabernet and a little Merlot is made only in exceptionally good years. It is dense, dark and full of flavours. There is a little smoky oak and lot of luscious fruitiness. The wine is delicious now but will reward further five to eight years of cellaring. Try with fried beef hor fan.

Syrah 98

La Strada    $205, Ponti 2810 1682

Marlborough, on the northern tip of the southern island of New Zealand is better known for being the home of Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc. However, this elegant, medium bodied Syrah may soon proudly promote the region as well. Unlike many Australian Shiraz, La Strada is only lightly oaked and unlike Hermitage and Cote Rotie, this example is not over powerful like distilled-fruit juice or fruit-jam. It is fragrant with plenty of freshly ground blackpepper and a really nice texture. Try with lobster and black bean sauce.

Roero Arneis Vigna Tabaria 2000

Luca Abrate    $125, Abrate and Sons 2541 7234

The delicious white grape Roero Arneis is exclusive to Piedmont in northwest Italy. Vigna denotes a wine originating from a single vineyard only. This example has received extra tender loving care in the growing and making to ensure that it is neither diluted nor thin like the majority can be. This Arneis is fragrant with aromas of white flowers. It is unwooded to allow the full fruit character to come to the forefront. It is crisp without being excessively dry or sour. Best served with Thai fishcakes.

Simon Tam is director of the International Wine Centre. He can be reached at admin@iwinecentre.com