Cuvee Bois 1997
Domaine du Tariquet
Vin de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne, France
$99, Watsons Wine Cellars 2147 3640

France's second lowest official wine classification of Vin de Pays (VdP) is in fact synonymous with the French revolutions in winemaking and quality. While the almighty Appellation d'Origin Controlee stipulates and monitors every aspects of wine production, the VdP's primarily concern is the genuineness of the geographical origin. This sumptuous Gascogne white is from the southwest of France and is made from a blend of palate-enriching Chardonnay, aromatic Sauvignon and refreshingly crisp Gros Manseng and Cognac's prime ingredient -- Ugni Blanc. A touch of oak maturation and partial lushness enhancing Malo-lactic fermentation completes the recipe. An excellent bargain and deliciously different. Try with roast chicken with garlic mash potatoes.

Siepi 1998
Castello di Fonterutoli
Indicazione Geografica Tipica, Toscana, Italy
$488, Watsons Wine Cellars 2147 3640

Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) effectively defines the specific origin of a single or multi-vineyard wine. It does not however dictate the type of grape variety or the necessary winemaking techniques as in the case of DOCG and DOC. The result is a much more flexible and innovative winemaking environment. Superlative quality Tuscan wines that bear the IGT and Vino da Tavola classification are commonly termed as Super-Tuscan. Castello di Fonterutoli is one of the most highly regarded producers in Chianti and Siepi is the super-Tuscan of the firm. The locally grown and low-yielding Sangiovese gives the wine a hearty, warm note while the Merlot rounds the wine and softens the sometimes aggressive Sangiovese tannins. Siepi is very complex, concentrated while remaining elegant. It has aromas of spicy blackberry and coffee like oak characters. Serve with a good book on a rainy day.

Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 1998
Vin de Pays de L'Herault, France
$244, Remy 2523 5904

Mas is the southern French term for a Domaine and Daumas Gassac is regarded as the Grand Cru of the south. This is a blend the popular Chardonnay, the rare and fragrant Viognier and the popular southern grape Gros Manseng, which adds body and fullness on the palate. The appearance is medium yellow, which normally suggests bottle age but in this instance, the deeper colour indicates the difficult to handle Gros Manseng. The aromas are very complex and are both fragrant and rich. The palate is full and flavourful with a gentle roller-coaster profile (both flavour high and low-notes). Finishes dry and balanced. The 1980 vintages of this wine are still delicious and immaculate. Serve with Salmon Gravalax.

Byron Estate Pinot Noir 1997
Sierra Madre Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley, California
$430, Remy 2523 5904

Possibly the New World's best Pinot Noir! Typically, the New World style is less than complex, mostly straight forward, lacking finesse, overly 'sweet' and sometimes with enough oak to anger the environmentally conscious. This Byron Estate single vineyard Pinot is everything that most American Pinot isn't. Even those famous brands from Oregon in the Pacific Northwest region rarely achieve the incredible level of complexities and balance between all the elements. Is it worthy of a 'Burgundian Style' tag? Yes, most Burgundian producers would love to claim credit. If you think that the winemakers at Robert Mondavi have forgotten how to make quality, handcrafted boutique wines, Byron Estate will change your mind. Serve with smoked trout but drink on your own!

Carmen Merlot Reserve 1997
Rapel Valley, Chile
$140, Sinolink 2408 3090

Another Chilean Merlot? Only when it is good and this Carmen reserve is very good. Beyond the fact that the winemaker has done two to three years at the winemaking Mecca of Chateau Margaux. For the fourth year in a row, Wine and Spirits Magazine has nominated Carmen as 'Chilean winery of the year'. It is dark and silky. The aromas are all plum, dark fruit and sweet oak, perhaps lacking a little complexity in the ideal world but the palate is rich and very smooth. The finish is flavourful and the 10-15 per cent Cabernet adds a firm structure as well to ensure the five to seven years of cellaring. Try with certified Angus Beef sirloin.

Simon Tam is director of the International Wine Centre. He can be reached at admin@iwinecentre.com