WINE
July 2001 Issue

Wine Review
 |
| with Simon Tam |
Hollicks Sparkling Merlot 1998
HK$220, Ponti Trading 2328 3218
Sparkling full-bodied red is probably
Australia's only indigenous wine style. The quality end of these wines is mostly made with
the labour intensive Champagne method. While most sparkling reds are made with Shiraz and
sometimes even Cabernet, this sparkling Merlot captures and clearly reflects the
flavourful yet approachable personality of Merlot. The fine, creamy bubbles add a
refreshing and enjoyable dimension. The winemaker Ian Hollick regularly serves this wine
with curry and roast duck.
Arnaldo Etchart 1997
HK$125, Casella 2399 6680
The French have successful elevate Cabernet
to the stratospheric status, the Australians with Shiraz, and the Argentinians with the
Malbec. This blended wine is made from 80 per cent Malbec while the 10 per cent Cabernet
adds sturdiness and tannin structure, the balance of the 10 per cent Merlot gives the wine
fragrance and lushness. This wine, made by the historical Etchart Winery, is one of the
best-hidden Argentinean secrets. Affordably priced for everyday drinking, try with grilled
pork chops.
Knappstein Riesling 2000
HK$118, North East 2873 5733
Founded by the personable, yellow antique
plane flying Tim Knappstein in the picturesque Clare Valley, today Petaluma is both the
owner and the guardian of Knappstein wines. This is a refreshingly fruity wine ideal for
those who are 'chardonnayed out.' The
nose is pure and fragrant limejuice and the palate is deliciously fruity and crisp. While
totally drinkable today, this Riesling can age further for another five years. A
delightful partner with fresh boiled prawns on Lamma Island.
Champagne Pommery Brut Royal NV
HK$369, Force-8 2527 6217
Champagne Pommery is a Negociant Manipulant
(N.M.); it has the same legal classification as the likes of Moet & Chandon and Veuve
Clicquot. N.M. or a classification that describes the ownership of fine vineyards as well
as the detail overseeing of the production process from harvest to labeling produces
almost all the finest Champagnes. Champagne Pommery is a fuller style of Champagne and as
such is ideal with light foods as well as celebration. It is considered to be a less dry
style. The wine displays aromas of apples and biscuits, the palate is creamy and fairy
floss-like.
Montgras
Carmenere 1998
HK$118, Watson's WC 2606 8985
Carmenere was once upon a time as
indispensable as Cabernet Sauvignon in the great wines of Bordeaux. In Chile, Carmenere's
true identity is often confused with that of Merlot. Infact of the many commercial Chilean
Merlots available on the Hong Kong market, most of which are blends of pure strain Merlot
and the almost physically identical Carmenere. This is the first pure Carmenere to ever
reach Hong Kong. Its taste is remarkably similar to Merlot. It is plumy but with a peppery
edge characterful of the grape. The palate is rich and smooth. A medium dry wine with
plenty of cellaring potential. Try it with roast chicken. |