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WINE                                                                             July  2001 Issue


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Wine Review

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with Simon Tam

winehollicks.jpg (3760 bytes)Hollicks Sparkling Merlot 1998

HK$220, Ponti Trading 2328 3218

Sparkling full-bodied red is probably Australia's only indigenous wine style. The quality end of these wines is mostly made with the labour intensive Champagne method. While most sparkling reds are made with Shiraz and sometimes even Cabernet, this sparkling Merlot captures and clearly reflects the flavourful yet approachable personality of Merlot. The fine, creamy bubbles add a refreshing and enjoyable dimension. The winemaker Ian Hollick regularly serves this wine with curry and roast duck.

Arnaldo Etchart 1997

HK$125, Casella 2399 6680

The French have successful elevate Cabernet to the stratospheric status, the Australians with Shiraz, and the Argentinians with the Malbec. This blended wine is made from 80 per cent Malbec while the 10 per cent Cabernet adds sturdiness and tannin structure, the balance of the 10 per cent Merlot gives the wine fragrance and lushness. This wine, made by the historical Etchart Winery, is one of the best-hidden Argentinean secrets. Affordably priced for everyday drinking, try with grilled pork chops.

Knappstein Riesling 2000

HK$118, North East 2873 5733

Founded by the personable, yellow antique plane flying Tim Knappstein in the picturesque Clare Valley, today Petaluma is both the owner and the guardian of Knappstein wines. This is a refreshingly fruity wine ideal for those who are 'chardonnayed out.' The nose is pure and fragrant limejuice and the palate is deliciously fruity and crisp. While totally drinkable today, this Riesling can age further for another five years. A delightful partner with fresh boiled prawns on Lamma Island.

winebrut.jpg (8459 bytes)Champagne Pommery Brut Royal NV

HK$369, Force-8 2527 6217

Champagne Pommery is a Negociant Manipulant (N.M.); it has the same legal classification as the likes of Moet & Chandon and Veuve Clicquot. N.M. or a classification that describes the ownership of fine vineyards as well as the detail overseeing of the production process from harvest to labeling produces almost all the finest Champagnes. Champagne Pommery is a fuller style of Champagne and as such is ideal with light foods as well as celebration. It is considered to be a less dry style. The wine displays aromas of apples and biscuits, the palate is creamy and fairy floss-like.

winemonigras.jpg (3806 bytes)Montgras Carmenere 1998

HK$118, Watson's WC 2606 8985

Carmenere was once upon a time as indispensable as Cabernet Sauvignon in the great wines of Bordeaux. In Chile, Carmenere's true identity is often confused with that of Merlot. Infact of the many commercial Chilean Merlots available on the Hong Kong market, most of which are blends of pure strain Merlot and the almost physically identical Carmenere. This is the first pure Carmenere to ever reach Hong Kong. Its taste is remarkably similar to Merlot. It is plumy but with a peppery edge characterful of the grape. The palate is rich and smooth. A medium dry wine with plenty of cellaring potential. Try it with roast chicken.

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